Introduction to Lalibella
We flew from Axum to Lalibella. Airport security was tight; all bags were searched before boarding. We guessed it was due in part to our close proximity to Eritrea. Relations between the two courtries again had become tense. In Lalibella, the airport was empty. Tables had been set up by baggage claim with banners advertising various hotels. One man sat by at a general taxi stand. Once he saw we had already arranged transport to town, he melted away.
As the minivan drove up into the mountains, our driver pointed out one peak in particular, telling us that there was a rock-hewn church atop it. It would take four hours to walk there from town, but mules could be arranged if we were interested. Ed said it would be fun to leave town on mules, riding them to the church, and then down the mountain to the airport. That way, we could experience two modes of transportation separated by thousands of years.
Lalibella clung to the sides of a mountain. A paved road wound up to the center of town; a cobblestone road lead down the other side. Our hotel sat at the bottom of the cobblestone road.
As we checked in, the mangaer told us to buy our tickets to the churches that day. It was the end of the month according to the Ethiopian calendar, and the next day ticket costs would double. The tickets were good for five days, so it behooved us to move quickly. We ate lunch and then set off for the ticket booth, climbing the hill towards the center of town.
A number of local guides huddled by the ticket office asking if we wanted a guide for that day. We said we were planning on just having a look around; we'd decide on guides the next day. We bought our tickets and entered the northern group of churches. The 12th century church of Bet Medhane Alem greeted us first.
The church was immense. Measuring 33.5m x 25.5m, it's said to be the largest rock-hewn church in the world. The exterior resembles a Greek temple, with large (mostly restored) columns supporting a gabled roof. Scaffolding surrounds the church. Inside, I was awed. Thirty-eight huge columns lifted the barrel vaulted ceiling. The windows all sported different central crosses. I could hardly believe that all this negative space had been cleared from solid rock.
As we left the church we noticed a man had arranged our shoes for us. Another man called out. "Page 178," he said, then repeated. "Page 178 in your guidebook." I opened the book, and he pointed to a paragraph explaining the use of a shoe-minder, and the appropriate tip. We laughed and agreed and the shoe-minder began to follow us through the complex.
Leaving Bet Medhane Alem, we walked through a narrow tunnel to a large courtyard. Bet Maryam stood in the center, flanked by Bet Meskel to the north and Bet Danaghel to the south. We walked arond Bet Maryam and then entered from the south. Our shoe minder took our shoes and pointed to the northern exit. The church was amazing. The ceilings and upper galleries were painted with frescoes and carved with fine detailed patterns. On the eastern end, a column was wrapped in cloth. Local tradition states that Christ leaned against it when he appeared in a vision before King Lalibella. Beneath the cloth are said to be inscribed the words, "past and future of the world."
The other churches were closing by the time we left. Ed and I had also decided not to see anymore. We'd hire a guide the next day for a proper tour. Our shoe minder lead us through a small tunnel and then around just inside the outer wall to the Tomb of Adam. We left via a short set of stairs and looked back at the skull like edifice leading to the churches. I was amazed that so much was hidden within. As we walked a small path we found ourselves back in the village.
On the main street we ran into Yee. He had just finished touring the churches with his guide, Tilahuan. Yee recommended him and we engaged his services. Tilahuan told us that the churches held services in the morning and that we should meet early. We agreed upon seven. Tilahuan bid us good night, and Yee ran off to catch the late afternoon light over Bet Giyorgis. We returned to our hotel.
As we walked back down the road, I looked around us. The hills were dotted with huts and fields. Above the village, the sheer face of the mountain loomed. I searched for Bet Giyorgis, the most famous of the rock-hewn churches but could not find it. I was amazed that such archeological treasures could be so easily lost amid the rest of the Lalibella.
